Category Archives: Gardening

Dealing to those dry patches in your lawn (Wally Richards)

There are two problems that I was asked about this week and they may be ones that also affect your gardening endeavors.

The first is brown patches in lawn which often people mistakenly think of grass grubs as the cause. This is not to say that grass grubs don’t cause problems eating the roots of grasses but they are in the main seasonal. At any time of the year you may find a few white grass grubs in your gardens or lawn but the main populations start of from eggs laid deep in the lawn some time about November December when the beetles are active .

During their short period of life they are mating, laying eggs and eating holes in your plants at night. The grubs will hatch out and start feeding on the plants roots. If the soil becomes very dry as in a drought they will stop eating and lay dormant in the soil till the autumn rains moisten up the earth. Then they will continue eating roots towards the surface.

If in autumn you lift a square of lawn you may find a number of the grubs in the top 50mm of soil. If there is several in a square foot of area then it is worth while treating for control.

Control methods are either Wallys Neem Tree Powder or Wallys 3 in 1 for Lawns. Brown patches of grass at this time of the year is unlikely to be grass grub damage. It could be porina caterpillars which come out of their earth tunnels at night time to feed at the base of the grasses. This will cause bald patches. In gardens they may chew through the trunk of young seedlings and next day you will see the top of the seedling laying on the soil shriveling up in the sun.

Control treatment for lawn and seedlings is simply spraying the grass with Wallys Super Neem Tree Oil late in the day onto the recently mowed lawn. Like wise spray the seedlings for total coverage including the trunk near soil level. The porina when they come up to feed at night will get a dose of Neem and stop eating to starve to death.

The next possible reason for dry brown grass is a Thatch Problem. Thatch in lawns is the debris that builds up on top of the soil making a layer of organic rubbish. Over time unless treated the layer becomes dense and several mils tall. You will notice that when walking on the lawn a spongy feeling like walking on a thick carpet.

Thats the thatch.

When it rains or you water the thatch collects and hold the water in it layer which makes the grasses feeder roots grow up into the thatch for moisture. That not only makes the grasses weaker but also go brown when the thatch dries out. Sun and wind will dry thatch leaving the grasses without moisture so they will go brown.

The easy way to solve the problem is to use Wallys Thatch Busta on your lawn.

You dilute the product and spray it over a freshly mowed lawn or even better apply with a Lawn Boy if available. Thatch Busta is a high food which feeds the microorganisms to increase their populations and they will break down the thatch converting it to food for your lawn. The area needs to be kept lightly moist while this is happening and if no rain give a light watering once or twice a day to ensure the thatch is kept moist.

Warmth is the other requirement for success and at this time of the year there is ample warmth. Thatch Busta is best used in spring and autumn when there is adequate warmth and moisture from rain or dew.

Now the real problem of brown patches in the lawn if none of the above is what we call Dry Spot. Dry spot is when the soil surface tension caused but a period of dryness is such that water will not penetrate into the soil and instead sheds off into the surrounding area where it will sink in. The result is a brown area of grass with lush green grass around the perimeter. The easy way to solve dry spot is to fill the watering can with warm water, give a good squirt of dish washing liquid into the water and lather up with your hand. Water the soapy water over the brown grass and it will break surface tension so when you water or it rains the water will penetrate and the brown grass will green up again.

You will have likely seen in dry times playing fields that have gone brown looking like all the grasses have died. Not so once the rains come they will bounce back green, they were only laying dormant though lack of moisture. It takes a real dry drought for the sun to bake the grasses roots in the dry soil to kill the grasses. Dry spot or dry areas can also occur in your gardens and the soapy water will also fix the problem. Dry surface tension over larger areas are a cause of concern when it rains for the first time as the water cant sink in and flooding occurs. I always water regularly and in particular before rain to prevent that happening.

Now the next problem is container plants in big containers such as half wine barrels. Perennial plants such as shrubs and trees in those containers need root pruning every two to three years. That means lifting the plant out, cutting off bottom third of roots, putting fresh compost into the container (to height of removed roots part) and popping the tree/shrub back in. Not easy to do but if not done the plant becomes root bound and eventually dies.

Now some containers have either a bulge in the middle as in some types of urns or the top is more narrow than the container below. Containers like that should never be used for planting perennials in, only annuals. Always make sure the top of a container is the widest part and no pregnant like bulges. But not all is lost if you have the wrong type of container with a shrub or tree growing in it. After say 3 years in the container with a sharp long knife cut four wedges out of the root mass at the four cardinal points. Cut as deep as you can and remove the roots and soil. Then sprinkle some Blood and Bone and Sheep Manure pellets down the wedge holes and then fill with fresh compost. You may need to repeat this operation every two years and cut your wedges in a different area from last done.

Another way is if you have a drill bit that is about half a metre long and about 4cm wide you could drill some holes down into the container to cut roots and then fill holes as above.

If you require any products this week is the last week at the current prices. Order on www.0800466464.co.nz

Happy Gardening

Photo: pixabay.com

A Beginner’s Guide To Gardening: How To Get Started With Gardening

If this is your first time gardening, what to plant and how to start are undoubtedly making you anxious. And while Gardening Know How has plenty of beginner gardening tips and answers to many of your gardening questions, where to begin searching is yet another intimidating roadblock. For this reason, we have compiled “A Beginner’s Guide to Gardening,” with a list of popular articles for starting a garden at home. Don’t be intimidated by the thought of gardening – get excited about it instead. Big space, small space or not much at all, we’re here to help. Let’s dig in and get started!

Read more at Gardening Know How: A Beginner’s Guide To Gardening: How To Get Started With Gardening https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/garden-how-to/info/beginners-guide-to-gardening.htm

Vermicomposting – Learn How To Make A Worm Tube

From gardeningknowhow.com

Exactly what are worm tubes and what good are they? In short, worm tubes, sometimes known as worm towers, are creative alternatives to traditional compost bins or piles. Making a worm tube couldn’t be easier, and most supplies are inexpensive – or maybe even free. A worm tube provides a perfect solution if you have a small garden, if you just don’t want to bother with a compost bin, or if bins are frowned upon by your homeowner’s association. Let’s learn how to make a worm tube! Worm Tube Information Worm tubes consist of 6-inch (15 cm.) pipes or tubes inserted into the soil. Believe it or not, that’s really all there is to making a worm tube! Once the tube is installed in your garden bed, you can drop fruit and vegetable scraps directly into the tube.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Worm Tube Information – Learn How To Make A Worm Tube https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting/vermicomposting/making-worm-tubes-for-garden.htm

Learn more about vermicomposting here:

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/composting/vermicomposting

Photo:PortalJardin @ pixabay.com

I’m planting flowers…

Image from SACREDECOLOGY with thanks … very pertinent right now

Gardening for January: Healthy crops, healthy you (Wally Richards)

First column for 2022

Happy New Year (at least hopefully happier than 2021)

The first subject is an important one and one I published 2016 (remember 2016? it was a far better country then and if you had been told back then that you had to wear a muzzle and have a special permit to do many of the things you had freedom to do back then.. You would have laughed yourself silly).

Amazing what humans will do and allow to happen when they have fear shoved down their throats day and night.

Anyway the above comments are another reason for the sensitive readers to unsubscribe.

Maybe those that have unsubscribed in the past year will wake up one day shame faced that they had been fooled without realizing it.

Well on with the year and this article:

HEALTHY CROPS, HEALTHY YOU

I often compare the health of our plants to our own health.

The reason for this is that all life forms have similar requirements to be able to be healthy and are effected by adverse conditions causing stress which leads to health issues.

It is also important to realize that for us humans to be in peak health we need to consume very healthy vegetables and fruit.

With our plants we need to make available to them a very healthy soil (Soil Food Web) full of organic materials along with all the minerals and elements possible.

Add to this sufficient sunlight and water for the optimum growth of the plants. Also protection from elements and a suitable pH and even with all these in place a plant can get into stress through temperature fluctuations, chlorinated water and other chemicals.

We can know, generally speaking, that a healthy plant is less prone to diseases and insect attack (both are Natures Cleaners) but if the plant gets into stress then the chances are it will have pests and diseases attacking with more vigor. If we then treat it with a chemical control the plant may overcome that particular problem but its immune system is further weakened making it more vulnerable to problems.

We are very similar; if we have a home grown diet of vegetables and fruit that are teeming with nutrition we are going to have healthy bodies. Even so if we get into stress for what ever reason then our immune system is compromised and we catch a cold. If our food chain is not really healthy and we are eating chemically laden produce that is low in goodness then our health is in trouble.

Our body is storing up poisons that it can’t clear out which leads to the major health issues we see today, cancers, heart and mental function problems. One simple health example of this is sulphur, our bodies need a daily amount of sulphur to preform several functions because our body does not store sulphur.

It uses what’s available at that time and expels any surplus.

You can ensure your home grown vegetables contain sulphur by spreading Gypsum around about every 3 months. Also my Calcium and Health product contains Sulphur and other important elements such as selenium.

If you take sulphur food supplement which is called MSM for a few weeks you will find out if you are lacking in this mineral or not. Your first signs are usually a detox.

More info if you are interested at http://www.gardenews.co.nz/msm.html

A problem arises for some people in so much as they can’t grow big gardens of vegetables and have a good selection of fruiting plants.

Lack of room can be a problem yet with the smallest amount of space you can grow some really great health beneficial plants.

Wheat Grass is about the healthiest plant you can grow because it will take up all the 114 minerals and elements if they are provided in the growing medium.

That is the minerals from the Ocean (Ocean Solids) the minerals from rocks (Wallys Unlocking Soil) and the minerals from prehistoric times, Magic Botanic Liquid (MBL).

These are used in the growing of your wheat grass so that when you cut and either juice it or use in Green Smoothies then your body is maxing out in goodness.

Just 30 mils a day of the pure juice can make the world of difference to your well being.

A question that I have been asked is the wheat juice gluten free? Yes because it is the wheat seed or more importantly the contents of the seed (Flour) is the gluten bit.

An interesting article I read this week about the gluten condition and it reinforces my thoughts that not all people who appear to suffer from gluten; are actually suffering from the chemical poisons in wheat.

Here is what was said:

Do you consider yourself to be sensitive to gluten? Your problem with wheat, it turns out, may not be a problem with gluten at all. It may, in fact, be a problem with GLYPHOSATE.

Most people don’t realize it, but even though wheat is not yet commercially grown as a genetically engineered crop, farmers saturate wheat crops with very high doses of glyphosate right before harvest, speeding the drying of the wheat stalks and accelerating harvest duration. The result is that toxic, cancer-causing glyphosate herbicide is now found in many wheat products, including pasta, wheat bread, wheat flake breakfast cereals, donuts, bagels, cake mixes, snack crackers and much more.

Glyphosate is known to be toxic at parts per billion concentrations, meaning it only takes a very tiny amount to potentially impact your digestion and metabolism in a dangerous way.

What’s the solution to glyphosate in wheat products? Buy ORGANIC wheat, which isn’t legally allowed to be sprayed with glyphosate.

Once you switch to organic wheat, you may discover your “gluten” problems simply disappear… and that’s because it wasn’t a gluten problem to begin with. It was glyphosate poisoning!

That is likely to be the reason that prior to the 1980’s before glyphosate was discovered, very few people actually had a gluten problem.

It is now just the beginning of January and only 5 months to the shortest day. Planting of vegetables for winter cropping is a do ‘right now’ so you catch the most daylight hours possible before the days start to really close in.

Use Neem Tree Powder with your plantings of vegetables and with your cabbages, cauliflowers etc use hoops and crop cover (bug mesh) over the plants to stop white butterflies from laying their eggs on the leaves.

Leeks, silverbeet, carrots, parsnips should be planted now the later two from seed direct sown where they are going to grow.

Keep planting salad crops so you have ample lettuce, spring onion and radishes.

Winter flowering plants are also coming available and the sooner you get them in the sooner they will establish and start flowering.

Problems ring me at 0800 466464
Email wallyjr@gardenews.co.nz
Web site www.gardenews.co.nz

Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

Gardening tasks for December (Wally Richards)

December, the first month of Summer and at this time our thoughts are more on Christmas rather than the garden. If we neglect the garden completely this month then much of our previous efforts will have been wasted.

Spend a few hours making the garden Xmas ready, so you can relax over the festive season.

Check for plants and shrubs that might need stakes and supply them with soft ties. Ensure climbing beans and peas support frames are sturdy and reinforce if needed. Staking and support is most important as heavy fruit will break branches with resulting losses. If you are, by chance, growing the extra large tomatoes that can weigh about a kilo each fruit then see if you can find some old bras to support them.

Thin crops of apples and other fruit if the wind and the trees have not done this for you. You may like to do summer pruning of your fruit trees which means snipping off the new growth that is happening just beyond a bunch of fruit. This puts growth into the fruit rather than new foliage growth. The spring growth may have caused some shrubs or trees to over shadow their neighboring plants, cut back so all share the sunlight.

Hand pollinate pumpkins, squash and courgettes to ensure fruit set.
This means checking your plants first thing in the morning for new female flowers (they are the ones with the embryo fruit behind the petals.) When you find any then look for a male flower that has a stamen covered in pollen. I like to pick the male and remove its petals so I can touch the centre of the female flowers with the male pollen. That ensures fruit set and overcomes the young fruit from rotting on the vine later on due to lack of pollination.

Dead head roses (and other flowering plants) to create another blooming on those that are capable of doing so. Cut back the young stems to a point before a leaf to encourage new growths and more flowers. Check for aphids and other pests at the same time and if found spray with Wallys Super Neem Tree Oil with Super Pyrethrum added just before dusk. If you find spider mites with their little cobwebs then treat them with Sulphur powder. Place the yellow sulphur powder into a nylon stocking and form it into a ball shape inside the stocking. Lightly mist the affected plant with water and then with a flat stick, hit the ball of sulphur to create a cloud of dust to settle on the plant and kill the mites. If you have Liquid Sulphur spray with that instead.

Remove larger weeds and hoe up the small ones to let them die in the sun. If you have Oxalis then treat with Wallys Super Compost Accelerator (600 gram jar) – place content into a watering can with 3 litres of water. Stir to dissolve all the crystals and then water that over the foliage of the Oxalis and down into the soil to compost the bulbs in the soil. This is best done in full sunlight when the soil is on the dry side but not bone dry as you want the mix to penetrate down to the bulbs.
Repeat as need be till no more oxalis in that area. This product is also available in a 2kg jar. Do not disturb the soil as there maybe a few bulblets still dormant; instead cover soil with weed free compost so you can plant into it. Do not pour over preferred plants as it will damage them.

Water soils well and then apply a mulch to conserve the moisture and suppress new weeds. Lawns that have not been de-thatched should now be done using Thatch Busta. This will reduce the early brown patches seen, as the soil dries.

Potatoes sown for Xmas dinner should be kept watered and maybe lift a plant to see how they are progressing. (No point of lifting on Xmas morning and finding they are not ready and you have no spuds.)
Pick peas as the pods fill so you have nice young peas and this will encourage more flowers. You can blanch the peas and freeze them for Xmas day. A two weekly spray of Wallys Super Neem Tree oil with Raingard added will prevent powdery mildew taking hold.

Saucers can now be placed under container plants outdoors to provide the extra water they may need to get through each day. (These must be removed before winter). Shade glasshouses if they are becoming too hot during the day. If the temperature in the glasshouse gets up over 30 degrees than plants stop growing till it cools down. During the heat plants are expiring moisture through the edges of their leaves trying like we do when we sweat to cool down. Even when soil is moist there may be situations where the plant can’t take up enough water to transpire through foliage and we see wilting of the top foliage occurring. To cool down the glasshouse and increase the humidity sprinkle water on the concrete floor (if not concrete then on the gravel stone walkway.)
The water evaporates and cools the house and reduces stress on the plants from the high humidity.

Inside your glasshouse and even out side, pests such as whitefly breed very quickly so you need to take early control programs. The sticky yellow whitefly strips are ideal for catching hundreds of whitefly adults along with other pests. Regular spray programs under and over the foliage just before dusk combining Wallys Super Neem Oil and Wallys Super Pyrethrum will help prevent population explosions. (If you start early enough).

If you have psyllid problems on tomatoes, capsicums, chili, okra and egg plants you may reduce the problem by using the Cell Strengthening spray already combined with the Super Spreader spraying the foliage every week. The silicon toughens up the cells making it hard to impossible for the young nymphs to feed thus breaking the life cycle.
I have used this spray on my garlic this year and now have great plants with bulbs filling out nicely and NO RUST; first rust free crop for about 3 seasons now.
Place Bird Repellent Ribbon over strawberry beds and around tomatoes to reduce the birds damage to the crops. For a final treat to the garden mix up MBL (Magic Botanic Liquid) and Mycorrcin together and spray the foliage of plants this increases their health and stops many of the normal diseases from happening.

Work in the above order and then put your feet up and enjoy your efforts.

Problems ring me at 0800 466464
Email wallyjr@gardenews.co.nz
Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

Which vegetables to plant right now (Wally Richards)

That is, in the Southern Hemisphere, this being a NZ blog.

I was asked the question this week about what we should be planting vegetable wise at this time of the year.

A lot depends on how much room you have and how keen you are on growing your own vegetables. If you are fortunate and have a good size section such as quarter an acre then you can be fairly self sufficient in fresh produce. If you have only little land around your home then you have to be innovative with your limitations.

There are some nice planters you can purchase such as on Trade Tested 150 litre and 112 litre made from durable plastic at reasonable prices. These can be sat on concrete or at the edge of the lawn or where a garden used to be.

Place weedmat under them where ever you choose to put them.

I have several of these which arrived in a Flat Pack and were easy to assemble. Filled two thirds full with compost (I prefer Daltons Compost) and then I spread the likes of chicken manure (or any animal manures), Blood & Bone along with Wallys Calcium & Health, Wallys BioPhos, Wallys Unlocking your Soil and Wallys Ocean Solids.

This means your vegetables will have all the nutrients, minerals and trace element that they would like which means the produce will be super healthy, have marvelous flavor and so good for your immune system. Over the top of the goodies you put a further layer of compost about 4 cm thick. It is into this layer that you can plant seeds or seedlings.

With the longest day of the year next week we have optimum hours of daylight for growing stuff. You should have salad crops currently growing and harvesting as they mature such as lettuce, radish, spinach, silverbeet, spring onions etc.

The key here is to have small plantings every 2-3 weeks so you will have succession crops for harvesting. For instance you might plant 4-6 lettuce plants now and in about 3-4 weeks another 4-6. When the first lot are being harvested you plant the third lot and that will take you well into winter before you find that the low day light hours take much longer to mature the plants. Thus you can harvest the larger outside leaves and let the plant grow more leaves. Silver beet is a great one for this type of harvesting.

Now here is a little secret that you can use when you buy a punnet or cell pack that has many seedlings much more than you want to plant at one time. Before you try to separate them put the punnet into a bucket of water and after it has finished bubbling remove all the seedlings from the plastic. Now working underwater you can separate off the number of plants you wish to plant. Only take the bigger more developed plants and plant them. You are left with one or more clumps of seedlings so rather than throw them away plant into the soil as a clump. Because they are over crowded they will hold and not grow much.

In two weeks time you can lift the clump and under water separate those you wish to plant. This can be repeated a few times before the seedlings become too stressed and not worth planting.

December is also the first month to plant your winter crops of brassicas. The 6 packs that have two cabbage, two cauliflowers and two broccoli are ideal for succession planting so about every two weeks you plant another lot. The last month for planting these winter crops would be end of March.

If you have ample land and grow potatoes for Christmas or storage then likely the early crops will have been harvested or ready to harvest soon. It pays to either bandy-coot a few potatoes out from under the plants to determine size and health. If you don’t feel any good size tubers under the plants then lift one or two and if only small marble size potatoes are found and they are re-shooting then you have had attacks from the potato psyllids. If the tubers are of good size then cut one in half to inspect the inside for dark rings if found then the crop is ruined from psyllid attacks. If neither of these problems exist then harvest your crop as soon as possible so you do not lose good potatoes to late attacks.

Last year about this time some gardens lifted a plant or two to find good tubers but left the rest of the crop in. Later when they lifted the remained of the crop had been attacked and was ruined. If you do not want to lift then cut the tops off and cover the stubble so the Psyllids have nothing to destroy.

My thoughts are lift crop and use that ground after applying more goodies for planting up winter crops. Root crops such as carrots, parsnips, onions and beetroot can be planted by sowing seeds into loose fertile soil. Sprinkle the seeds into a furrow or broadcast over say a square metre, spray the seeds with Magic Botanic Liquid before covering to speed up germination.

Keep moist by regular waterings. Later on when you have a good strike you can thin out the planting to give the bigger better plants more room to develop. Root crops are always best grown from seeds especially carrots and parsnips as they do not transplant well and you only get short stubby carrots to harvest.

You can buy coloured carrot seed from some seed suppliers for a bit of novelty and each has different health benefits also but all taste like carrots even the black and white ones.

It is also a good idea to start off a couple of tomato plants now which if you can’t purchase then grow from the laterals you are removing from your exist plants.

Now is about the last chance to grow heat loving plants such as capsicum, chili, egg plants, cucumbers, pumpkins. All of which are gross feeders so you could not only use Wallys Secret Tomato Food but also a drink every week of Wallys Liquid Plant food.

For the Cucumbers and pumpkin a weekly kick along using our Cucumber Booster that has two powerful nitrogen components.

That’s the gardening bit done and for those that like to know what they do not want you to know have a wee look at this link.

https://www.globalresearch.ca/vaccine-acquired-immune-deficiency-syndrome-vaids-we-should-anticipate-seeing-immune-erosion-more-widely/5764177

Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

Photo: pixabay.com

Dealing with bugs and pests in the garden

This is the time of the year some of a gardener’s bug enemies get out and cause damage. I have had my first phone call this week in regards to grass grub beetles eating the foliage of plants. The beetles are nocturnal, they will come out at dusk to mate and feed, lay eggs during their short life span. One beetle might consume a few leaves but hundreds and even thousands start to become a biblical plague.

I remember a few years ago about this time a lady phoned me with a sad story. She had purchased a horticultural block of land with hundreds of blueberry plants which she had figured out; that the income from the harvest would cover her mortgage repayments. What she had not calculated on was the block being surrounded by paddocks which were full of grass grubs. The beetles were out in their thousands feeding on the blueberry foliage and shredding the plants.

What to do?

When this happens in towns; plants get eaten at night and there is no sign of any culprits in daylight hours then it is beetles that are doing the damage. Take a torch after dusk and go check the plants that are being eaten for the beetles. When you see them then spray them directly with Wallys Super Pyrethrum at commercial strength. That is 2.5 mils per litre of water. It is a strong knock down affecting the pest’s nervous system and killing them.

You need to go out each night to check and spray till after a few nights there are no more beetles. If you are not able to go out then just before dusk, spray any target plants with Wallys Super Neem Tree Oil with the Super Pyrethrum added. When the beetles arrive later on they will get a dose of Neem when they feed and also have contact with the pyrethrum so a double whammy.

There is another way to control the beetles because they are attracted to light. This is an old method where you set up a strong light inside a window facing out to the area you want to control. Under the window you place a wall paper trough or similar against the bottom of the window pane. The trough is half filled with water and a little kerosene added to float on top of the water. The beetles fly at the light hit their heads on the window pane and they drop down into the trough below. The kerosene prevents them from climbing out and next day you can either feed the beetles to the chickens or flush them down the toilet. Have your light trap working every night until there is no more activity.

A more modern way is what butchers in days gone by used to have to zap flies; but a modern compact version of those zappers. I purchased one recently to use indoors for flies. It is a Sansai Insect Killer SK-120C. Put that into Google and you will find a number of suppliers in NZ around the $50 price. Plug into the power and the UV tubes light up which are the light that attracts flies etc and the grid is electrified static electricity. Any pest coming towards the grid gets executed.

Now this could be used outside in a weather proof situation as you do not want to mix electricity with water/rain. Also ideal to use for mosquitoes and sand flies if outside having a BBQ. It will also incinerate untold moths and any other flying night insects. Likely it will be zapping away most of the night so next day you can unplug and clean up the burnt bodies.

Another pest that will appear about now is the pear-slug or cherry slug. It is a black slimy looking slug that feeds on the foliage of cherry and pear trees and is the larva of the sawfly. The first infestation is often not noticed because the numbers are often few but the second infestation later in January/February period is large and damage to the foliage is certainly seen. Being a slug like pest they are controlled by sprays of Wallys Liquid Copper with Raingard added

So check your trees for them and if seen spray. If you can eradicate the first wave of them then there will be few to cause damage later on.

For other pest insects now is the time to get on top of them before they can breed masses of their offspring. Whitefly, leaf hoppers, scale, thrips, mites, caterpillars, etc. Fill up your sprayer with Wallys Super Neem Tree Oil combined with Wallys Super Pyrethrum to spray any and all target plants just before dusk. You can add to this spray Magic Botanic Liquid if you want to also promote healthier plants.

If you do this say every two weeks before problems start to arise or if already a problem them once a week till you have control. Settled weather means population explosions.

Happy Gardening.

Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

Photo: pixabay.com

The importance of Phosphorous to the soil in your garden (Wally Richards)

Phosphorus stimulates budding and blooming.

Plants need phosphorus to produce fruits, flowers, and seeds. It also helps make your plants more resistant to disease. Phosphorus doesn’t dissolve like nitrogen.

The soil will hang onto phosphorus, not releasing it into water.

Phosphate is needed by all life forms but if taken in too greater quantities it becomes harmful.

In the distant past phosphorus was obtain from manures especially bird or bat droppings called guano.

Phosphorus was also obtained from Reactive Rock Phosphate which is a hard phosphatic rock. In most soils it dissolves very slowly.

To make the rock phosphate more readily available to plants man discovered a process of using sulfuric acid, early in the 1900’s and a new agricultural fertilizer was created called Super or Super Phosphate.

It became a boon to agriculture and farming with tons of Super been spread to cause fast growth in fields and crops.

Unfortunately like a number of discoveries such as DDT and Asbestos, there was a hidden price to pay.

Super phosphate kills soil life and with their demise leads to unhealthy plants.

Not only that, it was also found that Super laden plants and grasses caused health problems in stock including cancers.

I read a very interesting book a long time ago called ‘Cancer, Cause and Cure’ written by an Australian farmer, Percy Weston.

Percy observed the results of the introduction of Super on his farm and the problems that occurred.

The book made me reconsider the use of Super in garden fertilizers.

Now days I would never use a chemical fertiliser or chemical sprays including any herbicides anywhere on my property.

But I have noticed that even though I obtained good healthy crops and plants, there is some factor that appears to be missing and the crops are not as lush as I feel they could be.

I have often thought that I am not getting sufficient phosphorus in my composts and mulches.

This caused me to do a bit of research on the Internet and found to my delight a company in New Zealand who make a product called BioPhos.

They take the rock phosphate and break it down naturally with micro organisms making it as readily available to plants as Super is.

The company sent me an email booklet and it showed trials that proved that not only did BioPhos work as well as Super, but actually better as it did not have a ‘peak’ growth on application and gave a much longer sustained release of phosphorus to plants.

Instead of killing soil life it actually supplies new micro organisms to the soil which carry on breaking the natural phosphorus down, meaning that only one application is needed per year unless you are cropping during the winter as well.

Some rose growers and rose societies recommend using BioPhos for better, healthier roses.

BioPhos contains phosphate, potassium, sulphur and calcium at the rates of P10:K8:S7:Ca28. BioPhos is Bio Certified for organic growing.

It is pH neutral and used at the following rates; new beds work in 100 grams per square metre, the same with lawns but water in to settle.

Side dressing plants; seedlings 8 grams (a teaspoon full) around base of the plant or in the planting hole. Same for potatoes (which do well with phosphorus)

Sowing beans peas etc sprinkle down row with seeds. Roses and similar sized plants 18 grams or a tablespoon full around plant or in planting hole.

Established fruit trees etc, spread at the rate of 100 grams per square metre around drip line or where feeder roots are.

Apply to vegetable gardens in spring and a further application in autumn if growing winter crops.

Can be applied to container plants also. Apply to tomatoes when planting or side dress existing plants.

When you obtain your BioPhos you will notice it consists of fine powder to granules with pellets of sulphur and odd splinters of wood.

These including the wood are all part of the product not messy packaging.

The lumps of granules actually contain 4,888,000 fungal colonies to aid the breakdown and enhance your garden soils.

If you have concerns about your health, the health of your family and you want to avoid illnesses such as cancer if possible, then grow as much fruit and vegetables as you can without chemicals.

BioPhos is biologically manufactured using an internationally patented thermophillic composting technology.

Natural products: whole filleted fish nutrient, microbes, inoculum, phosphorous rock and limestone are used to create highly available soil and plant food.

• Plant available phosphate

• Biologically activated lime

• Essential minerals and trace elements

BioPhos contains phosphate, potassium, sulphur and calcium at the rates of P10:K8:S7:Ca28.

BioPhos is Bio Certified for organic growing.

It is pH neutral and used at the following rates; new beds work in 100 grams per square metre, the same with lawns but water in to settle.

Side dressing plants; seedlings 8 grams (a teaspoon full) around base of the plant or in the planting hole. Same for potatoes (which do well with phosphorus).

 Sowing beans peas etc sprinkle down row with seeds. Roses and similar sized plants 18 grams or a tablespoon full around plant or in planting hole.

Established fruit trees etc, spread at the rate of 100 grams per square metre around drip line or where feeder roots are.

Apply to vegetable gardens in spring and a further application in autumn if growing winter crops.

Can be applied to container plants also. Apply to tomatoes when planting or side dress existing plants.

Photo: pixabay.com

Encourage your children to garden (Wally Richards)

We need to encourage our children and grandchildren to appreciate Nature by including them in some gardening activities.

I believe that young children have a natural affinity with plants and insects when they are allowed to explore our gardens.

Children learn many things by mimicking their parents and are often keen at a young age to assist in various gardening activities.

I remember as a toddler spending many hours in the garden collecting caterpillars off the cabbages and feeding them to our chickens.

I was given my own little spade and wheelbarrow when I was about three and had a lot of fun moving the weeds my mum cleared from gardens to the compost bin or to feed them to the chickens.

I can still remember how good it felt to be part of Nature back then and the same feeling pertains today when I work or wander around gardens.

It was about that time, when I was given my own little plot of ground to grow plants in.

Seeds would be planted and I would be taught which seedlings were weeds and which were plants.

My own little watering can would nurture the baby plants till maturity. A great ado would be made when one of my cabbages, silverbeet or lettuces was harvested for the evening meal.

Even though I hated eating silverbeet back then, I had to enjoy my own grown silverbeet, because I grew it!

It was the fuss that the adults made, that gave me a feeling of importance and likely kept me gardening for the rest of my life.

Plants that move have a fascination for children and a great one for this is Mimosa pudica, the Sensitive Plant, which folds up its leaves when touched. They are easy to grow from seed, as a pot plant for a windowsill.

Nice pink flowers also. As the plant matures it has thorns on the branches which incidentally are another attraction for children.

Cacti with their prickles often appeal to young boys and I had a small collection when young and still keep a few.

Two awesome plants for children to grow are the super giant sunflowers and pumpkins.

Called ‘My Giant Sunflower’ these extra tall sunflowers will grow up to 5 metres tall.(17 odd feet) Grown in full sun in soil that has excellent drainage and lots of manure.

The giant pumpkin is called ‘My Giant Pumpkin’ and these monsters can weigh over 1000 pounds at maturity. (Half a ton)

Another interesting aspect is to encourage the children to give their giant plant a personal name after it is established.

Naming the plant makes the giant more personal and helps the children to have respect for plants and nature.

If I was going to grow either of these giants, here is what I would do: In an all-day-sunny area, I would dig a hole about a spade depth and width,

chop up the bottom of the hole, so the soil is loose, then fill the hole with chook manure to about two thirds full.

(Other manure could be used if chook manure is not obtainable, but chook is best).

Fill the rest of the hole with a good compost and soil mix, 50/50 making a small mound about 12cm tall above the filled in hole.

Place one seed in the middle of the mound and wet it down with Magic Botanic Liquid (MBL), (20 ml of MBL to 1 litre of water.)

Water the mount to keep moist with plain water and then every 2 weeks with the MBL.

Overseas the biggest record vegetables have been achieved with products very similar or the same as MBL. Spraying the foliage of your Giants every 2 weeks with MBL

(10 ml to a litre) will also assist in a bigger healthier plant.

After your pumpkins are established and growing well, give them a drink using Cucumber Booster, once a week.

This is a high nitrogen product that is a combination of sulphate of ammonia and potassium nitrate, which you diluted in water.

Cucumber Booster is excellent for any plants that enjoys a boost of nitrogen after establishment. It is used for growing cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini and gourds.

The MBL and Cucumber Booster can be combined for watering into the soil near the base of the plant.

Because of the weather patterns we are experiencing, after you plant your seed, cut off the base of a 2 to3 litre plastic fruit juice bottle and place this over the mound,

with the cap removed. This will give your seed and seedling its own little glasshouse.

This is removed once the seedling starts to fill the bottle and needs more room. With the Giant Sunflower a tall strong stake should be put in the ground at seed planting time on the edge of the mound.

This will be needed later to give extra support to the plant.

Another interesting thing to do is once the sunflower gets up about a metre tall, plant 3 or 4 climbing bean seeds at the base of the plant.

These will grow up the sunflower and also provide extra nitrogen for the sunflower.

It is a lot of fun plus a great way to get the children way from the TV and video games, showing them there is more to life than a screen.

Some garden centres run competitions for the tallest sunflower and the biggest pumpkin with various prizes for the winners.

AROUND THE GARDEN

Aphids are likely to be found on your roses at this time and they can easily be controlled with a safe spray of Super Pyrethrum and Wallys Neem Tree Oil combined.

Spray very late in the day just before dusk to obtain the best results.

Stone fruit trees that had the curly leaf disease will now be producing new leaves free of the problem.

The damaged leaves will fall off over time. You can if you like, spray the newer leaves weekly with molasses at rate of a tablespoon per litre of water with

Magic Botanic Liquid Added.

This can help save some or all of the crop.

Codlin Moths will start to be on the wing about now so obtain a pheromone trap from your garden centre so you can monitor the best time to spray.

A number of gardeners have found that a spray of Neem Tree Oil with Raingard added over the young apples, applied about 5-7 days after an influx of moths into the traps,

has resulted in only a very small scar on the mature apple, where the grub took its first and only bite. The same can be used on all fruit that guava moths attack.

Tomatoes should be doing well if in a sunny, sheltered spot. Only remove laterals on a sunny day when it is not humid or moist.

Spray the wound immediately with Liquid Copper to prevent disease entering the wound resulting in the possible loss of the plant.

Ensure that the tomato plants are well supported on stakes during windy times.

If you are concerned about blights spray the plants with Perkfection as a preventative, once a month. The same applies for your potatoes.

For general health of any plants, especially roses and food crops, a two weekly spray of MBL and Mycorrcin works wonders. Spray both the soil and the foliage.

Avoiding the use of chemical sprays and fertilisers is a must for healthy plants.

I have a saying that if you work with Nature, you will have great gardens, if you try to work against nature, you have chemical warfare.

Happy, Healthy Gardening.

Photo: pixabay.com

Those plant gifts that keep on giving (Wally Richards)

Christmas is getting very near with only about 6 weeks till Xmas week.

Many of you will have already started putting a lot of thought into what gifts they would like to give and some will have completed most of their Christmas shopping already.

Others like myself are still thinking what to give to someone that is so hard to buy for.

A gift that is perfect is one that brings pleasure to the receiver as well as the giver. This means giving a gift that has really been thought about and often will have some personal input from the giver. For example young children making something, or drawing a picture, to give to their grand parents are treasures to be carefully stored and enjoyed for years.

Perennial plants are like that, they keep giving for years making them excellent gift choices for loved ones and friends. I know this because people will phone me asking about a plant that they were given in the past that is not faring so well and they need to revive it because it was a special gift.

Think about this; a young couple with a family are given an apple tree to plant on their section for Xmas. Within a few years that tree is producing a great harvest of fresh, healthy apples for the family to enjoy. As long as that tree is providing an annual harvest the giver will be remembered, even from beyond the grave.

I know of roses that were gifts 30 to 40 years ago still producing an abundance of blooms each year given by a mother or grandparents, long passed but cherished in memory through the annual flowering. Fruit trees, roses or a specimen plant gift can make the giver, in a sense, immortal for a long time.

This Christmas think gardening and the pleasure plus health benefits it can have for the receiver. Besides you can contribute not only with your money but also with your labour in making the gift more personal.

Here are a few ideas starting with a glasshouse either A-frame or lean-to; they come as kits and you can help put it together for the receiver. I recommend a glass, glasshouse as they will last for a life time and only need panes replaced if broken. A glasshouse for a person or family that loves to garden creates a new dimension to their gardening. It allows growing out of season tomatoes and capsicum, perfect for germinating seeds and striking cuttings, ideal for growing those more tropical plants that wont do well outdoors in your climate.

There is nothing better on a miserable winters day than to be pottering around in your nice warm glasshouse. More information about glasshouses can be found in my book Wallys Glasshouse Growing for New Zealand.

How about a raised garden for a elderly parent or a young family to grow vegetables in? You can construct an ideal one on site using roofing iron and 100 x 100mm posts (painted to keep the chemicals sealed). The structure just sits on the ground (best on concrete) it makes an excellent place to grow vegetables, once it has been filled to two thirds with organic waste and compost.

(My book Gardening & Health explains the process.)

Next to consider is a compost maker and by far the best are the tumbler ones as they will convert organic waste to compost in the quickest time. A worm farm is also another excellent gardening gift producing worm casts and worm pee to the benefit of your gardens as well as recycling all kitchen green wastes.

A rose in a container makes a lovely gift and now is the time to purchase and pot up. You need, one bush or standard rose, one container that is about 20 litres or more, a bag of compost, a punnet of trailing lobelia or alyssum. Make sure the container selected is either straight up and down or that the top is wider than the base with no middle bit wider than the top. (The rose has to be removed and root pruned every 2-3 years and if the top is more narrow than any other part you have to smash the container to remove.)

Fill the container with purchased compost to about half full and place some Sheep Manure pellets, blood & bone and Neem Granules before adding the rose removed from its bag or pot. The final height should be about 2-3cm from the rim to allow for food and watering. Plant the lobelia or alyssum around the edge so they will trail over. Not only does it make it more decorative but the foliage helps reduce moisture loss from mix and they certainly let you know when the mix is drying out. Place the rose in a good light shelter spot outside till you are ready to wrap and give. A final touch can be spaying the leaves with Vaporgard to make them really green and shiny.

Similar can be done with a fruit tree but then the container wants to be about 50 litres or more and instead of planting flowers around the rim go for either a herb such as parsley, thyme or basil. The fruit tree can be any variety you would like to give from citrus, feijoa, to pip or stone fruit. Dwarf types are good but not necessary as they all need root pruning in the future.

Annual flowers or herbs can be potted into nice containers using compost as the growing medium. Pot up now with colour spots or herb plants then they should be putting on a really good show about Xmas time. Children can help potting up for grandparents and then can proudly say they did it. Inexpensive and very much appreciated.

Garden shops these days have lots of interesting nick knacks and gift ideas besides their normal lines of plants and things. Soaps, cosmetics, bird feeders, crockery, fountains, statues and in some cases even water beads & artificial snow for decoration.

It is surprising the variety of products and ideas one can find in your local garden centre that you will not find in main stream retail. Makes Christmas shopping easy.

Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

NOTE: many of our posts are now over at https://truthwatchnz.is/
Check us out there for other daily news. EWR

Protecting your fruit crops from Codlin & Guava Moth (Wally Richards)

I wrote this article a few months ago but as several gardeners recently have been asking how to protect their fruit crops from both Codlin Moth and Guava Moth

I think it is well worth repeating this information. Guava moth is mostly in the upper north island but there has been a few cases in other areas likely as a result of fruit been brought south from infected areas.

So share with family and friends as there is nothing worse than losing your crop to these two pests.

There are two moths in New Zealand that attack fruit namely, Codlin Moth which have apples, pears and walnuts as their host fruit. Guava Moth which has all fruit and nuts as their host.

The Codlin Moth is seasonal active while there is fruit on their host plants but the Guava Moth is all year around going from one host tree to another.

Both are relatively easy to control so that you can obtain a reasonable amount of your crop as long as you follow my proven advise. Firstly let us understand how these two pests operate.

Being moths they only fly at night and they find their host tree by the smell of the forming and ripening fruit. So if they cannot smell your tree/fruit they will fly on by to a tree they can smell.

This is the first step in reducing the damage to your fruit by disguising the smell of the tree/fruit.

To do this you need an overriding smell that negates the smell of the tree.

Wallys Neem Tree Powder scattered on the ground underneath the tree from the trunk to the drip line.

Then by making some little bags out of curtain netting we hang more of Wallys Neem Tree Powder in the tree on the lower branches about head high at the four cardinal points.

So we use the Wallys Neem Tree Powder as described after flowering and when the fruit has formed to a reasonable size.

One application then is all that is needed for each crop to disguise the fruit as the powder last over 2 months slowly breaking down..

The next step in control is to prevent any grubs that hatch out near your fruit from eating their way into the fruit.

Once a grub enters the fruit you have lost the battle cause even if you use a poisonous systemic insecticide to kill it? Whats the point its going to die inside the fruit and be useless.

No you need a non toxic substance on the outside of the fruit that is going to prevent the grub from eating its way in.

Wallys Super Neem Tree oil with Raingard is the perfect answer.

You spray the fruit, not the tree so there is a coating of Wallys Neem Tree Oil on the skin of the fruit

protected from washing off in rain with Wallys Raingard (lasts for 14 days before reapplying.)

The Neem Oil is an anti-feedent which means when the young grub takes its first bite it will get some Neem Oil in its gut and will never eat again starving to death fairly quickly been so young.

On your mature fruit you will have a little pin pricked scar that where it took its one and only bite.

So all you do is just spray the maturing fruit every 14 days that are relatively easy to reach and spray.

Fruit that are more difficult to spray will likely be eaten by birds later on anyway and as long as you are getting a nice amount of fruit to harvest that is all that really matters.

Then there is also another way to control moth problem by which you set up a moth lure to attract them and kill them.

Take one litre of hot water add a100 grams of sugar, one teaspoon of marmite, half a tablespoon of Cloudy Ammonia and half a tablespoon of Vanilla:

Mix well and divide the mix between two plastic milk or soft drink bottles.

Punch some holes in the side of the bottles just above the level of the mix.

Place on a stand about a couple of metres away from the tree.

At about waist height like on a small folding table.

When a number of moths are caught dispose of them and make up a new solution.

Cloudy Ammonia used to be common once upon a time from a grocery store if not so easy to find try hardware stores, there are two chains in NZ and they may have.

If you do all three procedures for control or at least the first two then you should be able to once again en joy your own fruit.

The Codlin Moth traps are useful as if you monitor them they trap the male codlin moths which tells you it is the time to start using the Wally Super Neem Tree Oil spray on your apples etc.

If after a month you find no new male moths in the trap you can stop spraying as it is all over for the season. (That is unless you have Guava moths in your region).

Guava moth pheromone traps are a waste of time because they are all year round so there is no time to start or stop control sprays as with the Codlin Moth………..

Curly Leaf and Garlic Rust are also two concerns of many readers.

If you have either of these conditions currently my suggestion is to take a tablespoon of molasses dissolve in a litre of hot water and place in a trigger sprayer with 20 mils of Magic Botanic Liquid MBL (per litre) and spray the foliage of either plants. Repeat weekly.

The molasses can help save your crop by supplying energy that the leaves cannot create from sunlight because of the damage they suffer from the two diseases.

Phone 0800 466464
Garden Pages and News at www.gardenews.co.nz
Shar Pei pages at  www.sharpei.co.nz
Mail Order products at www.0800466464.co.nz

Image by S. Hermann & F. Richter from Pixabay

Survival gardening : growing your own nutrient dense food

From prepforthat.com

If you read a lot of survival articles online, you’ve probably wondered, “what is  survival gardening and how is it different from regular gardening?”

Survival gardening is a skill that allows you to grow your own food in the event of a short-term or long-term catastrophe.

It’s gardening, but gardening focused on growing plants without modern infrastructure. You have to realize, your neighbor that grows a garden probably uses modern methods and they probably grow plants that aren’t intended to fuel their survival.

A survival garden focuses on caloric density, nutrition, and seasonal implications.

READ MORE:

https://prepforthat.com/survival-gardening-an-ultimate-guide-to-growing-survival-garden-plants/

“Growing Your Own Food Is Like Printing Your Own Money” – Avoid GMOs & Do It

And yes, that garden on the header image is my old garden … I don’t garden as much these days (other priorities) but I buy organic or from local gardeners… EnvirowatchRangitikei

growingfoodronfinley1

Vanessa, a blogger from Taihape turned her parents front garden into a food space, pictured above, especially to show folks where food comes from … not necessarily the supermarket. Check out her blog HERE.


It’s well documented how harmful GM food is for your health (see our GMO pages) and it’s being foisted upon us whether we like it or not. Whether we protest, make submissions, voice our opinions etc etc or not, our voices are virtually ignored these days. Our current govt/corporations are determined to have us eat their products & in many cases we already are because they are not required to label their wares. However you slice & dice this it is downright fascist. We are forced to drink fluoride, chlorine and other unknown substances in our water (or spend a fortune filtering or distilling ourselves), to eat our mainstream veg and fruit that are sprayed to the hilt with a raft of chemicals and poisons (unknown to most purchasers because again no requirement to label them as sprayed or with what) … and unless we buy organic at often treble the price. Our meat is not exempt, just observe all the nice yellowy fields around the countryside, these are sprayed with Roundup that contains Glyphosate & is recommended by at least one I know of, agricultural text books, being as they say quite harmless. As harmless as dish liquid farmers tell me with a smile and as if I have two heads for even questioning their wisdom (which they acquired from Monsanto, no questions asked). These farmers spray it over everything. They love it. One proudly told me when the soil’s plowed under it’s perfectly safe for the stock to eat the grass that grows there. They think because you don’t drop dead on the spot it really IS harmless. Nobody bothers to look at the independent research or consider the LONG TERM effects. Anyway there is plenty of info on all of that, including the independent research, on our Glyphosate pages.

The point of this post before I get too carried away was to highlight the fact you can grow your own uncontaminated food, even in small spaces. Google that and there are many articles on gardens in small high rise apartments even. Nothing’s impossible. There are some other ideas on our Food pages also.

wallyjr_opt
Wally Richards: see the relevant links below

For Kiwis (and anybody else) we have our own Kiwi gardening guru Wally Richards. Wally also features in a gardening group at thecontrail.com. His website even provides a telephone number you can ring for advice if you’re stuck &/or you can sign up and receive regular updates and news about gardening.

 

Here’s Wally’s site:

GARDENING PAGES

ESPECIALLY for N.Z.Established June 1996(Orginally the web site was http://www.manawatu.gen.nz/garden

(Updated Monday 16th October 2017)
Note these pages WILL be updated weekly.Over 21 Years of bringing these gardening pages to the Internet(from June 1996 to present. Making this site one of the oldest web sites in New Zealand)Orginally the web address was http://www.manawatu.gen.nz/gardening


Changing The World
Garden by Garden!

“Surely by now there can be few here who still believe the purpose of government is to protect us from the destructive activities of corporations.
At last most of us must understand that the opposite is true:
that the primary purpose of government is to protect the destroyers of our Earth, our Home from the outrage of injured citizens.

If we do not resist using whatever means necessary, we condemn ourselves, our children and future generations to trying to exist on a lifeless planet.

Make no mistake, we are in a fight for our very survival.”

QUESTION MORE“If people let government decide what foods they eat and what medicines they take,
their bodies will soon be in as sorry a state as are the souls of those who live under tyranny.”

Thomas Jefferson

LATEST GARDENING WEEKLY NEWS

 

READ MORE

http://www.gardenews.co.nz/

 

Here is a link to the gardening group at thecontrail (you will need to sign up):

http://thecontrail.com/group/grow-your-own-food-gardening

NOTE: YOU CAN SEARCH FOR ARTICLES ON ANY OF THE TOPICS LISTED HERE, BY GOING TO ‘CATEGORIES’ (LEFT OF PAGES), THE TAG CLOUD, OR USE THE SEARCH BOX.

 

 

This Tiny Farm Pumps Out 6,000 Pounds Of Food Per Year. But Where It’s Located? Shocking

This Tiny Farm Pumps Out 6,000 Pounds Of Food Per Year. But Where It’s Located? Shocking.

How to build a no-dig garden … no kidding!

I personally don’t garden any more … well not at the moment anyway … I miss it too. Getting your hands in the soil and growing your own food is so rewarding. I learned that fact many years ago. Gardening is also therapeutic. A nurse once told me research corroborates that it is healing (although I’ve not yet researched it myself). It does make sense and years ago I watched a family member recover from her grief at losing a child by losing herself in a flower garden … which turned out to be a very beautiful garden. There’s an analogy there about burying seeds under the earth only to see them, once watered & subjected to the sun’s warmth, sprout and bring forth new life. This is the miracle of gardening, it is so multi-faceted and the rewards so numerous. To even further support the whole idea, (and I did research this one), there are organisms in the soil that are necessary to our gut. An elderly lady told me not that long ago that we are too ‘clean’ … we need to get dirt under our fingernails. Where once we did just that gardening, these microbes would be easily ingested. Now they’re clean washed away. Check out Dr Mercola’s article on this one:

3 “Dirty” Ways to Recharge Your Gut Health  

Jordan Rubin (N.M.D., Ph.D.) is another who can testify to this. As a very young man in 1996 he was suffering from Chrohns disease. He had wasted away to a skeleton and almost died. Eventually, after a long road of trial and error and a lot of expense, Jordan regained his health by supplementing the small amount that he could eat with homeostatic soil organisms. His story is miraculous. He has written best-selling books, one of which is called ‘The Maker’s Diet’. 

So, having established hopefully by now, at least some of the benefits of gardening, I’ll return to the original point of this post … I know there are folks who are unable to physically dig the soil but here is the beauty of the little known ‘no-dig’ method. I’ve only seen one person in my circle who has tried this method and did have a go a few years back with some success. Anyway, here is a great site with the ‘how tos’ of the no-dig method if you would like to give it a try.

 http://www.no-dig-vegetablegarden.com/build-a-garden.html

Check out this site also: http://www.worldorganicnews.com  there’s an ebook there on no-dig gardening and it’s not expensive! The World Organic News No Dig Gardening Book

Wally Richards’ Weekly Column: This Week, WHO’s latest announcement on Glyphosate

Here is Palmerston North’s gardening guru Wally Richards’ weekly garden news & commentary. Wally gives us his thoughts on the latest findings from WHO … “Glyphosate probably causes cancer”. This latest revelation from WHO along with Canterbury University’s findings were presented to the RDC last Thursday, however they remain unconvinced and the status quo remains regarding the liberal use of Roundup (active ingredient is Glyphosate) in Rangitikei’s public spaces. (Remember, this is also sprayed on pastures so glyphosate has to be in our meat and milk!). Read Wally’s articles and further research on the topic. You can sign up for his weekly article, and phone him on the toll free number provided if you have any gardening queries. You can also email him with queries (details at the end of the article). His website is a mine of useful information.

Gardening Articles for week ending 4th APRIL 2015
Written by Wally Richards.

GARDENING CHEMICALS RAISING HEALTH CONCERNS

The news this week coming from the World Health Organisation (WHO) stated that glyphosate the active ingredient in Roundup (and found in other weed killers), ‘probably’ causes cancer.

There has been mounting evidence of this from various science reports and findings over the last few years.

All of which Monsanto denies as they did in the past with Agent Orange as being safe.

The health problems came to light in Vietnam when Agent Orange (and similar) herbicides were used to defoliate jungles causing servicemen and local populations major health issues..

On the 21st March 2015 (The Guardian article said) – Roundup, the world’s most widely used weedkiller, “probably” causes cancer, the World Health Organisation (WHO) has said.

The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) – WHO’s cancer agency – said that glyphosate, the active ingredient in the herbicide made by agriculture company Monsanto, was “classified as probably carcinogenic to humans”.

It also said there was “limited evidence” that glyphosate was carcinogenic in humans for non-Hodgkin’s lymphoma.

Monsanto, the world’s largest seed company, said scientific data did not support the conclusions and called on WHO to hold an urgent meeting to explain the findings. “We don’t know how IARC could reach a conclusion that is such a dramatic departure from the conclusion reached by all regulatory agencies around the globe,” said Philip Miller, Monsanto’s vice-president of global regulatory affairs.

Concerns about glyphosate on food have been widely debated in the US recently, and contributed to the passage in Vermont last year of the country’s first mandatory labeling law for genetically modified food.

The US government considers the herbicide to be safe. In 2013, (Based on information supplied by Monsanto’s scientists) Monsanto requested and received approval from the US Environmental Protection Agency for increased tolerance levels for glyphosate.

Monsanto will fight this tooth and nail because of the many millions of dollars the company makes every year from selling this herbicide.

In March, 2015, 17 experts from 11 countries met at the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC; Lyon, France) to assess the carcinogenicity of the organophosphate pesticides tetrachlorvinphos, parathion, malathion, diazinon, and glyphosate (table). These assessments will be published as volume 112 of the IARC Monographs.1

In NZ already we see that some of the above chemicals have already been removed or restricted by EPA and ERMA. Which is very good but there appears to be no controls or restrictions on glyphosate.

We do not even test for the chemical in our food chain and I am sure that if we did the results would be alarming.

Glyphosate does not disappear when it hits the soil (Which was another lie Monsanto told when Roundup was first introduced) Instead it has a soil life of months or years dependent apon what research

you read or on what soil type.

One thing would appear certain is that if land is cleared using glyphosate at the recommended rates and a food crop is planted then that produce will have glyphosate traces in the foliage and even larger concentrations in root crops.

Farming practices that Monsanto recommends make matters even worse; this includes killing pasture grass with glyphosate and immediately putting stock into graze. (Likely spraying while stock is there)

In dairy this means that glyphosate would be in milk, cheese and all by products.

Does Fontera test for glyphosate? I dont think so but it is an interesting question. It could likely mean that traces of glyphosate would be in baby formula?

Then its also in your meat from farm produced stock. The health of the stock is very likely affected also.

As I wrote back in February, Monsanto also encourage farmers to use Roundup as a desiccant, to dry out all of their crops so they could harvest them faster. So Roundup is now routinely sprayed directly on a host of non-GMO crops, including wheat, barley, oats, canola, flax, peas, lentils, soybeans, dry beans, carrots, parsnips, onions, potatoes and sugar cane.

To sum up there is very likely a lot of glyphosate in your food chain coming in small amounts from all those foods we normally eat and no one tests for the chemical!

A few parts per million in your potatoes, onions, meat, breakfast cereals, milk, cooking oils, bread, carrots, sugar etc. Add it up for one day’s meals and maybe thats a lot of parts per million? We do not know because glyphosate is assumed safe according to our Govt departments who presumably only relate to what Monsanto says to the FDA. The fox is guarding the chickens.

Here are some facts:

Glyphosate is a broad-spectrum herbicide, currently with the highest production volumes of all herbicides. It is used in more than 750 different products for agriculture, forestry, urban, and home applications. Its use has increased sharply with the development of genetically modified glyphosate-resistant

crop varieties. Glyphosate has been detected in air during spraying, in water, and in food. There was limited evidence in humans for the carcinogenicity of glyphosate.

Case-control studies of occupational exposure in the USA, 14 Canada,6 and Sweden 7 reported increased risks for non-Hodgkin lymphoma that persisted after adjustment for other pesticides.

The AHS cohort did not show a significantly increased risk of non-Hodgkin lymphoma.

In male CD-1 mice, glyphosate induced a positive trend in the incidence of a rare tumor, renal tubule carcinoma. A second study reported a positive trend for haemangiosarcoma in male mice.

Glyphosate increased pancreatic islet-cell adenoma in male rats in two studies. A glyphosate formulation promoted skin tumors in an initiation-promotion study in mice.

Glyphosate has been detected in the blood and urine of agricultural workers, indicating absorption.

Soil microbes degrade glyphosate to aminomethylphosphoric acid (AMPA).

Blood AMPA detection after poisonings suggests intestinal microbial metabolism in humans. Glyphosate and glyphosate formulations induced DNA and chromosomal damage in mammals, and in human and animal cells in vitro.

One study reported increases in blood markers of chromosomal damage (micronuclei) in residents of several communities after spraying of glyphosate formulations.

Bacterial mutagenesis tests were negative. Glyphosate, glyphosate formulations, and AMPA induced oxidative stress in rodents and in vitro. The Working Group classified glyphosate as “probably carcinogenic to humans”

One of my pet thoughts is the great number of people that have allergies these days compared to say 50 years ago before glyphosate. The chemical in the food chain could well be the cause of a number of these health conditions.

Here is an interesting thought, where trade agreements that allow companies to sue countries if legislation used to protect the populations reduces the profits the company had being making!

Why not have the reverse where a company that supplies a product/chemical that is found to be harmful later on, then that company is totally liable for all the costs involved to that country.

That might have a few chemical companies and pharmaceutical companies change their ways.

Latest news; glyphosate also causes antibiotic resistance in harmful bacteria like Escherichia coli and Salmonella enterica serovar Typhimurium.

My personal opinion, its the worst gardening chemical currently for gardeners health.

Problems ring me at 0800 466464 (Palmerston North 3570606)
Email wallyjr@gardenews.co.nz
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